Between the Tróia peninsula and Comporta lies the famous corner of paradise that many travelers are currently coveting, not least for its subtle and typical gastronomy. From rice to fresh fish, wine and other delicacies, there’s a lot to discover and taste on this great spit of sand bathed in the Atlantic Ocean that runs from Troia to Comporta.
Beaches worthy of the most beautiful postcards, a tranquil landscape where green and white coexist, surrounded by the blue of the Atlantic on one side and the Sado river on the other. The Comporta region is a magical place.
This stretch of coastline, from the Tróia jetty to the Comporta rice paddies, has only recently appeared on the world’s radar, attracting the curiosity of Hollywood stars and families with young children alike. Agricultural and fishing heritage, tourism and identity, progress and preservation all come together in this microcosm south of Lisbon.
Why and how to get to Tróia and Comporta?
Troia and Comporta both have fascinating histories that go back many centuries.
Troia
In the former, for example, between the Iᵉʳ and Vᵉ centuries, there existed what many archaeologists consider one of the most important fish industries of the Roman Empire. We know that sardines were processed here and that there were several amphorae dedicated to the manufacture of garum, a fermented fish sauce still found in restaurants today.
The fishing tradition was never totally lost, but Tróia gradually turned to another sector of activity. Over time, tourism developed, largely because it was a transit area for travellers to the south of the country, who needed to stop and rest. This is how the region’s first inns came into being, some as early as the 16th century. This status has been consolidated and Tróia has become synonymous with vacations and the beach.
Comporta
A few kilometers away, fishing gives way to agriculture, in particular rice-growing, which remains one of Comporta’s main attractions. This area, privileged by access to heavenly beaches such as Carvalhal, has undergone a slow evolution, from the tranquility of a rural village to a cosmopolitan epicenter, with people from all over the world coming here for bathing, rest and tranquility.
Today, Comporta is the place to go on vacation. In the following suggestions, we’ll give you even more reasons to discover this corner of the coast nestled between the Sado and the Atlantic, by introducing you to some of the best gastronomic addresses run by emblematic characters. It’s easy to reach this part of Portugal, just 1h30 from Lisbon, by bus or car.
A seafood expert from Elvas to the Tróia peninsula
Rui Sequeira speaks from experience. He has been working at El Cristo for several years, and it is he who reveals the Alentejo roots of this house located in the heart of Tróia marina.
However, the parent company is located at the opposite end of the map, in Elvas. The reason: “Manuel Mendão was one of Portugal’s first seafood exporters. He used to travel alone from Setúbal to Milan and from Setúbal to Brittany. After a few dozen trips, when he passed through Elvas, as he always did, Manuel discovered an ideal space in which to set up a restaurant, near the sanctuary of Senhor Jesus da Piedade.
“As there were no fish and seafood restaurants in the area, he decided to open a restaurant there,” explains Rui Sequeira. That’s how the first El Cristo was born in 1977. In 2015, Manuel’s son Miguel inaugurated the Tróia branch, which has since dedicated itself to what has always been Manuel Mendão’s goal: serving the freshest seafood and fish around. Crab and spider crab are the most popular, but the classic prego no pão never fails. This fish, always fresh from Setúbal, is also a must.
El Cristo
Alameda da Marina, LM-1, Tróia (Grândola)
Tel: 265490705
12:00-11:00 pm. Closed Tuesdays
Average price: 40 euros
What to try in the Comporta region: simple elegance in Setúbal
It all began with the catering business Patrícia Veiga set up 18 years ago, after leaving her career as a medical IT specialist. She started with a two-person team – herself and her mother, Maria José – but soon expanded to 11 full-time employees. A real success story.
In July 2019, Patrícia decided to take another leap: open a farm to host events in Setúbal. Then came the pandemic, but the project ended up working out for the best: “In May 2020, we reached an agreement and three weeks later, in June, we opened in the space we occupy today,” she says.
Although this Grão de Bico was designed to operate solely as a takeaway, it eventually became a restaurant, grocery store and wine cellar. Whether for breakfast, lunch or dinner, the cuisine served here is elegant yet simple, with typical Portuguese roots and other influences.
Grão de Bico
Pestana Tróia Eco-Resort, EN 253-1 (Grândola)
Tel: 265105075
09:00 to 16:30; Friday and Saturday until 22:30. Closed Mondays
Average price 30 euros
From groceries to oysters and bubbles
The history of this family business can be seen on walls lined with newspaper articles. Carlos Gomes is the son of José Maria Gomes and Maria Marcelino, founders of Mercearia Gomes, and it is he who today, together with his brother António, runs this house, which they have been bringing to life with passion for 40 years.
“It all started very simply,” says Carlos. The grocery store his parents opened was much simpler than what we see today. However, it was already influenced by tourism, which, according to Carlos, is nothing new in this part of Comporta.
“First we had campers, wild camping, but things have developed. We now have tourists looking for house or villa rentals near the ocean.
It’s this change that has driven the growth and refinement of what he sells. Here you’ll find much more than vegetables for soup or a packet of flour: there’s an interesting selection of wines, preserves, cheeses, sausages and much more.
In addition to the grocery store, Carlos and his family also own a bakery, a wine and snack store and even an espumanteria, serving all kinds of “bubbly” drinks as well as fine Sado oysters or refined caviar.
Épicerie Gomes
Rua do Secador, 14, Comporta (Alcácer do Sal)
Tel : 265497177
From 09:00 to 13:00 and from 15:00 to 19:00. Closed Sunday afternoons.
