In this article, we’re going to introduce you to the best traditional trattorias in Rome, not the pretentious or touristy places, but the places where Romans go to feast. Rome is an ideal city in which to sample the most emblematic Italian dishes. Of course, pasta is the star of every good address we suggest! And let’s not forget seafood, with pasta frutti di mare.
A lush carbonara, full-bodied cacio e pepe dishes that tingle a little in the throat, a hot quinto quarto, freshly cut cold cuts and cheeses, vegetables arranged on a small plate, then al dente pasta, desserts and a few good bottles of wine to wash it all down with!
Culinary and Roman at the same time: that’s what you expect from the traditional trattorias of Rome, the Eternal City. They are places of love and encounter, friendship and laughter-filled chatter.
The best addresses are to be sought with a magnifying glass, so as not to risk piling into a tourist trap that lightens the wallet and weighs down the palate. Imperfect, as trattorias are, sometimes with a few drops of oil too much, dishes that run out before you can even order them, but always at the pinnacle of our gastronomic ambitions, with a taste that’s second to none!
We’ve put together a list of Rome’s most authentic trattorias.
Where to eat in Rome? Let’s start in the Trastevere district at Da Enzo, a truly “good restaurant”.
Undecided as to whether to call it “Da Enzo” or “Enzo al 29” for a public that is not hard to describe as immense, this little temple of taste is skilfully run by the De Felice family, heirs to the former owner, Enzo, who died in the 1980s. The queue outside is long, but waiting your turn is part of the ceremony, as the restaurant does not take reservations. Famous for its no-frills but well-executed Roman cuisine, it is particularly appreciated for dishes such as gricia, meatballs, amatriciana and desserts by the glass.
Da Enzo al 29 Via dei Vascellari 29, Rome. Tel. 06 5812260.
One of the most popular Trattoria Da Teo: for a pasta dish from another world
Overlooking the Trastevere marvel that is Piazza dei Ponziani, Da Teo is a beautiful trattoria in one of Rome’s liveliest neighborhoods. We come here to eat both outdoors, season permitting, and indoors, on simple tables set with bottles of wine, quinto quarto, fresh pasta and fried artichokes. Don’t miss the tempting desserts, especially the Roman primi strawberry cream. Freshly prepared fish dishes are also delicious.
Trattoria Da Teo. Piazza dei Ponziani 7A, Rome.
Taste traditional dishes at Trattoria Lilli, Italian cuisine in the historic center
Opened in 1969 by Loredana, known as Lilli, hence the name of the address, it’s a haven of peace among the tourist traps with dubious menus in the center of Rome. And you never leave this comfort zone: for the stuffed zucchini, the rich fettuccine with gricia, the gnocchi col sugo, the carbonara and the bucatini all’amatriciana, but also for the Roman artichoke, the ricotta and sour cherry cake and the timeless atmosphere.
Trattoria Lilli. Via di Tor di Nona 23, Rome. Tel. 06 6861916.
Enjoy true Italian gastronomy at Osteria Bonelli
An ultra-true and popular osteria, lively and noisy, that will delight fans of the lively Roman atmosphere. Located near the Roman aqueduct, it offers many Roman classics as well as more sophisticated dishes from the in-house recipe book. All dishes are listed on the slate, including chickpea soup, tonnarelli alla gricia and veal breast al tegame.
Osteria Bonelli. Via dell’Acquedotto Alessandrino 172, Rome. Tel. 329 8633077.
Rome wouldn’t be the same without Sora Margherita in the Jewish Quarter
Probably one of the least expensive trattorias in the Jewish Quarter (and also the most satisfying). You enter through a small door on the Piazza delle Cinque Scole and enter a long, narrow room filled with small tables. The atmosphere is family-friendly and festive, and the volume of voices is high, helped by the rumble of the low ceilings.
Recommended for a dinner with friends rather than a romantic rendezvous, but it always depends on taste. The dishes, despite the generous portions, are meticulous, always handwritten on a sheet of paper that serves as a menu, and presented with care, whether in the Jewish tradition (such as artichoke alla giudia) or the Roman tradition (bollito alla picchiapò). For vegetarians, there’s a wide choice of starters (homemade fettuccine with pesto, tomato and basil, cacio e pepe and ricotta).
Sora Margherita. Piazza delle Cinque Scole 30, Rome. Tel. 06 6874216.
Enjoy traditional Italian dishes at Da Marcello
The best dish to try at Da Marcello is the fettuccine aglio, olio e baccalà con le nocciole di Marcello, a composition of which the chef himself is very proud (based on fish, garlic and hazelnuts). Although this is a “simple trattoria” in terms of dishes, from starters to desserts, the care, presentation and balance of flavors are those of a top-quality restaurant. Examples include potato, onion and sesame flan with parmesan fondue, eggplant millefeuille and smoked scamorza cheese with pesto.
Osteria da Marcello. Via dei Campani 12, Rome. Tel. 06 4463311.
Checchino since 1887 – Testaccio
Opened in 1887, opposite Rome’s slaughterhouses (built a few years after its opening), Checchino is still run by the same family, now in its sixth generation. Here, you can eat dishes that are now very hard to find elsewhere (we told you about them here), in a place that practically offers a snapshot of a Rome that was very different from the one we know today. On the menu: corallina, stracciatella with meat broth, Roman-style flank steak with tuna, capers, olives and parsley, lightly spiced, then grilled veal liver with onions, bollito misto and zampi salad.
Checchino since 1887. Via di Monte Testaccio, 30 Rome. Tel. 06 5743816.
A star-studded address – Le Grotte
A fine restaurant in a quiet alleyway right in the center of town. The setting is decorated in typical Italian trattoria style, and the staff are professional. The restaurant offers a varied menu and excellent meals. You can even request takeaway meals.
A beautiful wine cellar is visible from the entrance, and you’ll be surprised at the number of celebrities who have passed through this restaurant, with the photo frames as testimonials.
The little extra that makes all the difference: the concierge service for baby carriages.
Via della Vite, 37, 00187 Roma RM, Italy. Tel. +39 066784117
